Beyond Truffles: Chef Kayama’s Bold Vision for Margotto e Baciare Pushes the Boundaries of French Cuisine

Margotto e Baciare is an innovative French restaurant in Nishi-Azabu that opened its doors in 2014. Celebrated for allowing guests to fully experience truffles in all their dimensions, the restaurant is listed in the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2025. Before opening Margotto e Baciare, Chef Kenta Kayama trained at some of Japan’s most distinguished establishments, including Mona Lisa, Nihonryouri Kanda, and Quintessence. Shortly after his restaurant opened, his younger brother Junpei Kayama joined him, having previously served as sous chef at MASA, a Michelin one-starred restaurant in Paris. The two brothers have been running the kitchen together since then, united in their commitment to Margotto e Baciare. In 2017, Chef Kayama was notably named Japan’s first-ever “Rising Chef” by the International Academy of Gastronomy.

The heart of Margotto e Baciare’s identity lies in its famous truffle pairings. All their truffles are sourced at the precise peak of their aroma and flavour, and are presented to guests based on their weight. Each guest is also invited to choose their favorite truffle using their sense of smell, and once the truffle is chosen it is sliced in front of them on the spot and used to garnish their dish. This participatory presentation draws guests deeper into the unique truffle driven experience they can enjoy at Margotto e Baciare. The period of November and December is the only time of year when both black and white truffles are simultaneously in season. Enjoying both white and black truffles in a single dish is a memorable experience, and we recommend making a visit to Margotto e Baciare during that special time.

Two of the restaurant's most celebrated signature dishes are the “Egg on Toast,” and the “Caviar Monaka,” which are both available as optional additions. However, another dish to which Chef Kayama pays considerable attention is the Consommé Soup. It is built on a dashi of Rishiri kombu, layered with beef bone and chicken bouillon, and clarified with minced Yamato Haibara beef. Served in a wine glass designed to capture its aroma, the dish is first enjoyed as it is, then with shaved truffle to experience the change in fragrance. It is intentionally served piping hot, almost too hot to drink, as a tribute to Japan’s “owan” culture. This reflects Chef Kayama’s desire for guests to fully appreciate the pleasure of savoring soup at its ideal temperature.

“I want to make the allure of truffles a part of everyday dining culture.” Built on this idea, each dish at Margotto e Baciare is filled with surprise and playfulness, leaving a lasting impression on the senses and in the memories of every guest.

“I Discovered the World of Cooking with the Guidance of Two Father Figures”

Chef Kayama first set his sights on becoming a chef when he was still in primary school. Helping his father in the kitchen of their Western-style restaurant in Hiroshima from an early age, food quite naturally became part of his daily life. After finishing high school, he enrolled in a culinary school in Tokushima at his father’s urging. It was there that he encountered Hiroyuki Kanda of Nihonryouri Kanda, who was teaching at the school as a visiting lecturer at the time. Chef Kanda then took the young Chef Kayama under his wing from the moment he arrived in Tokyo. He eventually became such an important presence in Chef Kayama’s life that he describes him as having “a Tokyo father.” His mentor has stood beside him at every significant moment of his career ever since.

In 2022, Chef Kayama fulfilled his long-held dream of taking his restaurant overseas. When an opportunity to open Margotto e Baciare in Hawaii arose, he accepted without hesitation. After navigating the considerable difficulties of the pandemic era, the restaurant has since grown into a popular destination, drawing in tourists and locals alike. With the principles he inherited from both of his father figures guiding him, Chef Kayama’s journey is far from over.

ROCOCO: An Elegant Opener to a Memorable Meal

Among the drinks served at Margotto e Baciare, ROCOCO has gained the reputation as the pour that opens the meal. Chef Kayama recalls how he first decided to serve ROCOCO at his restaurant: “I took a sip, and I honestly thought: this is delicious.”

Chef Kayama readily admits that when he dines out, his first drink tends to be beer rather than champagne. In that spirit, ROCOCO is served alongside the amuse-bouche, providing a refined alternative to champagne to start off the course. ROCOCO’s affinity with delicate dishes is one draw, but equally appealing is how seamlessly it holds its own against richer, fattier dishes such as eel, which broadens the possibilities of what ROCOCO can be paired with.

“Our cuisine moves across many different styles,” Chef Kayama reflects, “but ROCOCO never gets in the way of any of them.” Its lively character as an opening drink, its seamless harmony with our main dishes, and the understated elegance of its bottle have allowed ROCOCO to settle naturally in the world of Margotto e Baciare.