Chef Tsushima’s Philosophy is to Transform Common Fish into Unique Dishes that can only be Enjoyed at Senshin

Senshin is a Japanese restaurant that hangs its noren in Higashi-Azabu. Head chef Tatsuya Tsushima opened Senshin in July 2022 after five years of rigorous training at Ginza Uchiyama and further experiences at other restaurants in Tokyo.

Senshin’s cuisine is defined by its transformation of common fish into unique dishes, with the mastery of Japanese culinary techniques as its foundation. However, Chef Tsushima doesn’t shy away from integrating ideas drawn from Western and Chinese cooking techniques, which adds a flair of creativity to his dishes. In the words of the chef: “Rather than relying on luxury ingredients or dishes with prestigious origins, I take familiar fish, apply my unique cooking style to them, and shape them into dishes that can only be served at Senshin.” Chef Tsushima runs his restaurant on his own and carefully composes each menu. Even dishes that, at a first glance, appear to be simple have been meticulously considered, are carefully prepared with flavours that have been thoughtfully layered. Each dish is elevated into something distinctly “Senshin”. By drawing out the true character of each ingredient, his dishes leave a lasting impression through depth of flavour rather than showiness. For returning customers, he even prepares an entirely different set of ideas for each visit. At Senshin, the rhythm of the seasons shapes each menu, and every course is designed to create a single, unrepeatable encounter.

Senshin is known for its rice, which is served at the end of the course. They serve Koshihikari rice from Tokamachi in Niigata Prefecture. Their rice is always carefully prepared, and just before it finishes resting, a bite-sized salt onigiri is served to customers, a moment known as tachimae, which is when the grains stand upright from high heat. That is the point when the rice’s natural fragrance and sweetness are at their peak, and are further enhanced by the salt. The rice is then allowed to fully rest before being served with seasonal fish and vegetables, allowing guests to enjoy how the rice’s texture and aroma evolve as it continues to settle. Their miso soup is generously made with the bones and trimmings of seasonal fish combined with four varieties of miso freshly blended to suit the dashi. This balance of temperature, fragrance, and umami as it moves through the palate brings the meal to a satisfying close. For dessert, Senshin serves a classic dessert of house-made black sesame yokan. Two days of patient preparation draw out the toasted richness of the black sesame, leaving a calm, lingering impression after the final bite.

Furthermore, Chef Tsushima’s graceful movements and his perfectly measured conversation with guests sitting at the counter are pleasures in themselves, and part of what makes the experience at Senshin so unique.

Chef Tsushima’s Culinary Philosophy is Shaped by his Deep Understanding of Rice

Chef Tsushima grew up in Sendai with a love of food, especially rice. As food became more central to his daily life, his curiosity about ingredients and cooking grew as well. In high school, he studied agriculture to learn how rice and vegetables are grown, which deepened his understanding of ingredients. With the support of his parents, he later attended culinary school, where he was drawn to Japanese cuisine and built the foundation for his future career as a professional chef.

Chef Tsushima’s passion for rice lies at the heart of Senshin today. His rice course always anchors the end of his course. Each dish he serves throughout the course is designed with the final rice course in mind. This ensures that the fish, ingredients, seasoning, and overall flow of the course all naturally lead to rice as the culmination of the experience. This approach reflects Chef Tsushima’s guiding philosophy: to elevate common ingredients to memorable dishes unique to Senshin, without relying on luxury ingredients. Although grounded in traditional Japanese cuisine, Chef Tsushima also draws on ideas from other culinary traditions with a spirit of playfulness. This flexibility allows Chef Tsushima to explore flavors and styles beyond traditional Japanese cuisine.

“ROCOCO is an Elegant Opener that Easily Complements our Menu”

Senshin’s relationship with ROCOCO goes back to Chef Tsushima’s years training at Ginza Uchiyama. Before opening Senshin, Chef Tsushima was designing its future menu and decided to include ROCOCO as “a beer worthy of being the first drink to start off the evening.”

“ROCOCO is easy to drink and beautifully aromatic, and has a subtle sweetness that has also made it popular with our female guests. It has a smooth mouthfeel and a rich aroma, yet leaves no lingering aftertaste, which is incredibly important. The way a drink finishes determines whether the chef’s intended flavours reach the guest as they should,” says Chef Tsushima. That is exactly why ROCOCO is increasingly served alongside Japanese cuisine. It pairs particularly well with fish and complements a wide range of preparation styles, including fried dishes. Served as a starter at the beginning of the course, it allows for a smooth transition into sake or wine as the meal progresses, and many guests choose ROCOCO as their first drink.

In a course built on delicate flavours, ROCOCO sets a quiet and elegant tone from the very first glass.